marker work, and a rant.

Cross posting this from my MarkerGuru Blog.
Scanning Marker art:
So I spend a lot of time adjusting my images once they're scanned to restore them to the original look because scanners do tend to kill some colour.
Whether you're scanning cards or illustrations the same type of problems can occur.
I just stumbled on this neat tutorial on dA and thought I'd share it with you. It follows the methods I mainly use to fix up my images.


Tutorial: My Scanner Hates Me by *Wolf-Suit on deviantART

Storing your Marker Art work:
Most everyone knows that dye based markers (all of them...) are not completely light fast. this isn't as detrimental as it sounds. No they're not light fast, but that doesn't mean they fade, and burst into flames like a (real) Vampire as soon as the light hits them. You can preserve your work with proper storage and care.
For storing my Marker Illustration I mainly use a variety of sizes of Itoya Profolio. The black paper and plastic sleeves are archival, and the book keeps the light out. There are a number of different items, these ones just happen to be available for me.
Key words you want to look for with storage products are Acid Free and Archival. I've previously created a blog post on that.
They Key is to keep them out of the light, and in an acid free environment.

There are varnishes on the market that are UV protecting. I've yet to try one on a marker drawing, but I hear they're available. I personally don't like the idea. I think if you need to do something like that, you're better off using a UV protecting class and a frame.

A little rant about blogs and misinformation:
Sometimes I google for information, and sometimes I come across something that really puts me off; Misinformation!
I do a great deal of research into what I post about in my blogs (all 5 of them) and I make sure my information is as accurate as possible by contacting the manufacturers and the reps for companies all the time.
(I seem to have a running contact with Copic LMAO). By doing this I'm getting my information from the source! Be very careful about how you speak about stuff in your blogs.
I came across one today that said "Solvent based markers are DANGEROUS to you and your art" then the post talked about markers that weren't even solvent based, and had information that was simply the person quoting something online without using the product and having a sensitivity to the product (something I come across OFTEN in my work).

Non Toxic:
Yes Non Toxic is a broad term. One thing non toxic does not mean is "you can eat and huff this forever". Very often people develop sensitivities to certain things. someone can react very badly to a non-toxic labelled product. That does not make the product necessarily "dangerous".
To someone who is allergic to shellfish for example, doesn't run around screaming about how Shellfish is "dangerous" and no one should ever have it because they almost died from eating it. That would get that person promptly labelled as a Loon by most, but a few ignorant people would run our and ban it for life. (This is of course referring only to the allergy side of shellfish, and not the mercury levels).
I guess my point is, don't take every statement at face value, especially when it isn't coming from the main source. Just let these sorts of blogs encourage you to look deeper into things!

TL;DR: Seafood is Non Toxic, but can kill people, Copics are non Toxic too, but some people get headaches because they're sensitive to it. Don't be a sheep- research!

Plein-Air wet canvas Carrier (tutorial)

So, We went painting in Stanley Park last weekend and I needed a way to carry my paintings to and from the park while they were still wet (oil paint). This posed an interesting problem for me. I could buy a 10$ wet canvas carrier, that only carried 2 stretched canvases of equal size, or make something else. I prefer painting on a rigid surface, so my friend Maria mentioned a book she had that had made a box to carry them taped or mounted on boards. Well not being a carpenter or good with a ruler, I modified this idea.

My wet canvas carrier is extremely inexpensive. Each board is only 2-3$ and the spacers are only 5 cents each. here is what you need:

Masonite, or hard boards cut into the sizes you paint on giving a generous space around the edges. Example.: My canvases were around 10x10 on a 12x16 board size.

Rubber Framing bumpers. they have to be the dense rubber kind, not the foam or felt. They need to provide enough space for the canvas, and the paint with some air flow.

a strap and box (optional) the strap holds it all together, and a box to carry it in wouldn't hurt, but I didn't have one, I just slipped it in my backpack.

Okay, Here is what you do!

Step 1

Take your Masonite, and put about 6 bumpers on it. One on each corner, and one on each side of the long side (seen in the figure to the left). Save one Masonite board that you don't put bumpers on.

As you can see I've also taped on a piece of Primed linen canvas as well.I'd recommend more tape, but whatever works for you. Just keep in mind, the space is limited so the flatter the better.
The Linen I bought in a large roll, and cut into the desired pieces. It's 7 oz, clear primed. I got it at Opus Framing and art. Regular price at the time of purchase was a steal at $215 for 5ft by 10 metres. I got it on sale, and split it, and the cost with a friend. I had 5 meters for $75 and it will last a LONG time! LOL!

Anyways, add the bumpers to as many boards as you think you can carry comfortably. each board will hold one canvas, unless you put one on the back of each as well, but if you do an impasto technique, you might find yourself wanting more space, or having paintings rub and transfer. It's best to leave enough space for the slight bowing that accidental pressure will cause.

Step 2

Once you have all your boards done, you just have to stack them together (see above photo) as you can see it leaves just enough space for the painting in there. but the top is exposed. Good thing you saved that piece of extra Masonite. it becomes your lid. you just lay it on top of the top boards bumpers, sealing everything in.
Now I experimented, because I ran out of Masonite and I wanted more paintings, and so I tried Chloroplast... No go... It's not rigid enough to properly protect the paintings. so Pretend in all these photos that the white board is actually Masonite!
This is the result of using Masonite.. .don't worry. I had put a bad painting there to test, it didn't ruin anything wonderful haha.

So anyways, heres the final bundle. (except the top would be Masonite). Everything is safe, now you just need either cord, or belts to strap it together. I used a belt, and cinched it around the 2 edges. Just make sure you wrap the belts or straps across where the bumpers are. If you don't you are creating pressure where there is no support. you will cause bowing and put pressure on your wet paint!
It's that easy! Granted this is a rather rudamentary thing, but for hardcore plein-air painters you could probably invest in a box or some kind, and get some grooves cut to slide your boards in, but for people with limited budgets and time, this would be perfect. I use it and its grande.

Hope this was useful!

If you want to make panel carrying boxes, I found a couple tutorials on that as well:

Wooden box

Foamcore box.